Livingstone

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

cover2000-11It has been referred to in various travel magazines as “the prettiest lodge on the Zambezi” and at the 25th Annual Awards Ceremony of the Trade Leaders Club in Madrid, Spain, Chundu won the Year 2000 trophy, an International travel award, which was presented by an overseas selection panel from the Tourist, Hotel and catering industry.

Although Zambezi Royal Chundu has only been in existence since 1996 it has a certain timelesness about it. It is in the unique position of being in Tribal Trust land and was given the honour of carrying the local Chief, Sekute’s, Royal Family’s name, “Chundu.” Most of the staff at the lodge are from the Tokaleya Tribe. Friendly, kind and extremely patient people.

I had been looking forward to visiting Zambezi Royal Chundu ever since I’d met the owner, Lynne Morze, at a travel show earlier in the year. I thought that with someone as warm and unpretentious as Lynne at the helm, the Lodge in question must surely have the same vibe about it …  and it does. We were made to feel thoroughly at home and “part of the family” throughout our stay at Chundu.

With three teenage children in tow, intent on catching the biggest tiger in the Zambezi-above-the-Falls we set out for a brief, but enchanting few days at Chundu in mid July. The Lodge is situated about 59 km from

Livingstone on the Kasangula Road in the Katambora area – close to the Zambian Botswana border post.

The chalets (there are six – two family and four twin) are situated on a rolling lawn and surrounded by a lush flower garden. The river is literally within spitting distance of the lodges – one could almost lie in bed and fish – although the “mozzie’ gauze on the windows might be a problem! In fact this would be even easier from the Treetops river houses which are on the other side of the dining area from the lodges. There are two family units, one sleeping seven and one sleeping four people. They’re built right out onto the Zambezi River under a canopy of massive waterberry trees. Treetops was built with the regional and local markets in mind – with a charge of US$55 D.B.B for adults and US30 for children p.p.p.night. Probably one of the most reasonably priced accommodation establishments of this type on the upper Zambezi. There’s also a very natty bar area and pool behind the lodges… for warmer days.

After a brief recovery from our journey, we were summonsed to dinner by the age-old beat of the African drums. There’s a wonderful ambience in the dining boma. It was built by the community using local materials. It’s spacious but warm. The decor is mostly locally hand crafted, and there are a few huge stunning wildlife paintings on the wall.

On warmer nights, one can stroll along the wooden walkway to a balcony built over the Zambezi and enjoy a sundowner to the accompaniment of the sounds of the burbling river – and some of the many nightjar species in the area. According to bird fundi and Chundu co-owner, Chad Morze, all species of nightjar are found in the Katambora Forests, including the particularly rare Natal nightjar.

Butternut soup with crunchy croutons was the perfect starter for a chilly July evening and this was followed by a delectable creamy lemon chicken dish and fresh vegies and apple pie and cream. I’ve never been partial to Zim wines, so with tongue firmly in cheek I tried a 1997 Zimbabwean Pinotage, that Lynne had recommended, with the meal. Not bad at all, 1997 was definitely a pretty successful year for Zim wines!

And so to bed, to dream of the Zambezi’s famous fearsome fighting fish that we hoped to encounter – once, or twice at least – the next day.

A fishing trip with Chundu does not involve the unpleasant business of getting up at crack of dawn (an almost impossible task for teenagers on holiday). We agreed to embark on our fishing adventure at 8.30 after a thoroughly satisfying hot breakfast.

We set off at a leisurely pace in a fair sized, sailless catamaran, with our guide Solilo. We spotted a few elephant browsing in the distance on the Zimbabwean shoreline and a massive croc slid into the water from one of the islands close by, reminding us that dangling feet over the edge of the boat was not such a great idea. Trawling with Rapala for tiger seemed to be the order of the day. Despite the time of day (and the time of year) we had an extremely successful morning’s fishing catching four good-sized tiger. Chundu, being in a tribal trust land, works on a “catch and release policy”, so after admiring and recording for posterity on camera the exhausted fish, and ecstatic fishermen, we carefully popped our very relieved tigers back into the river. A note to other enthusiastic fishermen – the best time to fish is actually from August through to March (the warmer months). Take your own rods and tackle and don’t think of bringing your own boat. Chundu has a fair supply, and their boat drivers/guides are well trained and excellent.

An alternative to fishing could be a canoeing trip on the river where your personal guide offers assisted paddling whilst you explore the island channels and riverbanks of the Zambezi. A trip to Chobe Game Reserve is another option. It takes no time at all to get through the Botswana border and into the Chobe Game Reserve, and the day includes a game drive, lunch at Gabbies Guest House and a game viewing cruise on the river. There’s also a “Four Countries Ferry Trip” where guests take a trip on a ferry to a point where they can observe four countries’ borders at once – Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Botswana. Then there’s a Victoria Falls tour; a visit to the Mosi oa Tunya Game Park or Maramba market in Livingstone; bird and island walks; a traditional Makoro trip or a visit to a Tribal African Village. Prices range for each activity and some – like the Tribal Village tour – are free (but a donation to the school would be appreciated).

I was sorry that we didn’t have time to get involved in more activities, but there’s always a next time – and once you’ve had a taste of their wonderful hospitality and savoured the warmth and peace of the Zambezi

Royal Chundu, you’re bound to want to return to this genuine “home from home” on the Zambezi.

 

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Book Review : Kariba into the Millennium

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

logo Book Review

Kariba into the MillenniumBy Colin Gillies

 

Kariba into the Millennium is a reprint of a book entitled Kariba, The Story of the World’s Biggest Man-made Lake, which was originally published just after the Dam was completed in 1959, with some information of more recent developments added.

It relates the history of the Dam from the time of its conception in 1950, the politics that surrounded the decision to build at Kariba rather than on the Kafue River, the rumours that circulating before the award of the construction contracts and when the first contractors were on site.

Of interest is also the construction of Kariba Township and the facilities that were put in place for the accommodation and entertainment of the people working on site as well as their families. When their houses were being built, the contractor was completing two houses every three days.

The engineering is explained in detail, as is the forced relocation of the Tonga people who were the inhabitants of the Kariba Gorge before the construction of the dam. This is a little known bit of Zambia’s history, as is the River God of the Tonga people, Nyaminyami. Nyaminyami, a dragon-like creature with a body of a snake and the head of fish, is believed to occupy Kariba and became separated from his wife by the construction of the wall. His wrath was made known by the numerous deaths of construction workers and by the floods which washed away parts of the wall in 1958.

Operation Noah, the removal of wild animals from the islands that were formed as the Lake filled up, is covered, as is the clearing of the trees and bush that would eventually be covered by the Lake.

The section, which is the reprint of the original book, includes many black and white photographs and advertisements from the various companies involved in the construction of Kariba. It is interesting to compare the design of the adverts with those prevalent today, as is the comparison between the layout and typefaces used then and those use now. The additional section has coloured photographs and covers the different activities that are part of Kariba today – fishing (subsistence, commercial and sport), crocodile and bream farming and the other leisure pursuits including its rich wildlife and bird life as well as its glorious sunsets.

Written and published in Zimbabwe, latter day developments only include what has happened there and omit any developments that have taken part on the Zambian side. There is also still confusion in my mind as to who wrote the original book, was it Colin Gillies, whose name appears on the front cover or was it someone entirely different. If it was written by someone else, no acknowledgement is given to this fact.

Having said that, anybody interested in the history of what was a feat of engineering in the 1950’s and the difficulties which had to be overcome to ensure an adequate supply of power to Zambia and her copper mines, this is a book which you should definitely read.

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Choma Chat

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

cover2000-11Choma Museum and Crafts Centre

The Choma Museum and Crafts Centre (CMCC) is strategically located along the Livingstone- Lusaka road. Founded in 1988, it is housed in the former Beit Hostel and School for Girls, one of the oldest preserved buildings in Zambia, which dates back to 1926. From very modest beginnings, the Museum has expanded dramatically as far as collections and exhibition space is concerned and is surely the first with regard to standards and benefit to the community.

It is not that often that you visit a place which leaves a lasting impression especially in Choma, but CMCC has that effect on all who stop off there and take a look around. The number of visitors it plays host to every year as well as the comments received in the visitors book testifies to the appreciation of local residents and tourists. The facilities are impressive by any standards and if you have a natural curiosity and a love for beauty you will find a visit to the museum a rich and memorable experience.

In the gardens of the Museum one can see the eight-foot steel balls that were used to clear the planned harbour sites and fishing areas of Lake Kariba during construction of the dam wall. These steel balls were connected to bulldozers by battleship anchor chains and dragged through the bush, smashing everything in their path. Each ball cost £2,500 and each chain, £ 6,000. Using these balls, it was possible to clear 50 acres per hour.

 

Steel balls used for clearing bush at Kariba

 

For art lovers, their Gallery of Fine Art has prints and paintings by Zambian artists of international repute. Included in its collection are works by Stephen Kappata, Henry Tayali, Cynthia Zukas and Godfrey Setti. The Choma Gallery of Fine Art promotes and markets selected fine art, which contributes to the income of artists as well as funding the gallery.

CMCC is trying to ensure that it generates its own funding and makes use of its garden facilities for outdoor receptions such as weddings, braais and corporate functions. It also has a Donations Drum through which visitors contribute to the running of the Museum.

Inside the museum complex is a craft shop. Every purchase from this shop means a better life for the Tonga female rural peasant farmers, who are now very much into craft production, which supplements their income. A stable source of income allows them to become more independent and self-supporting. With Christmas just around the corner, this may be the perfect place to shop for gifts for your family and friends.

Admission to the Museum is free and it is a perfect place to stop on the way to for from Livingstone with its secure parking, clean ablution facilities and pleasant grounds in which you can refresh yourself before continuing your journey. For more information contact Choma Museum and Crafts Centre, Tel (032) 20-103, Fax (032) 203-94 or Email cmcc@coppernet.zm.

 

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Oriental Gardens

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

Eating OutFollowing warm recommendations by friends, we decided to have dinner in the recently re-opened (ex-Chantal’s) restaurant, the Oriental Garden. We were greeted by country and western music which continued all evening. A few men sitting at the bar, otherwise the place was empty. There were checked cloths on the tables, and one could admire one’s reflection in the full-wall mirror, but nothing suggested anything even faintly resembling ‘oriental’.

The food on offer is Indian and Continental. We, a party of 4, chose Tandoori chicken (K15,000), prawns (K28,000), Nile Perch (K18,000) and Pepper-steak (K20,000), omitting starters. The menu said all Indian dishes were accompanied by either rice, naan or popadam and raita. This turned out to be untrue. The food was a long time in coming – which, in an empty restaurant, is understandable (I presume the chef has to defrost things first).

We ordered drinks: two water, one beer, one glass of wine. The beer was frozen when it came, the water had turned into lemonade. We sent it back; the waiter apologised. And then he hovered. I don’t know what he was waiting for. We asked him to remove himself while we were talking. He did.

We then were offered two popadams, an advance on the meal accompaniment. We munched popadams. And waited. Finally the food came. The Tandoori chicken was just that, a leg and thigh of a chicken with a few chopped cabbage leaves on the side. The prawns likewise: ten shrimps (NOT prawns) cum cabbage, nothing else. The fish and peppersteak were alright; they came with rice and the obligatory cabbage. What of the naan? It was brought. No raita. Later we found naan and popadam on the bill (at K6,000 each), the side-salad was K7,000. The total bill came to K145,750 – not much in these days of high inflation but too much for what was offered.

Management was not in sight. And, because it is always futile to complain to staff – especially to ill-trained waiters as encountered at Oriental Garden – we didn’t. Needless to say, they won’t be seeing us again – ever.

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Rhythm Talk – Gontroppos & Company Take The Stage

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

cover2000-11A modern dance is composed in much the same way as an essay – each movement is like a word, a string of movements like a sentence, or a phrase. Once you have a few sentences, you can start to make a paragraph, stringing the movement phrases together, attaching them with transitions that work like conjunctions and commas. Composing a dance is also like writing a song, with choruses repeating in between verses.

Such are the workings behind the scenes at the Gontroppo rehearsal space, led by Claudia Kennedy. The group of nine dancers reflects a diversity of dance backgrounds, countries of origin, ages, and occupations. The group has been meeting once a week for the past year to create the works that will be shown in at the Lusaka Playhouse from 16th to 18th November.

Claudia has been dancing, choreographing, acting and directing ever since she starred in her first serious role – a tree – at the tender age of four. She trained in Vienna, and the U.K. and besides working as a performer, she has taught dance and drama to people of all ages since 1988, from Baby Boppers to Jazz Kids, adult community courses to teacher training. She has been focusing on youth theatre and dance since 1993, and is particularly interested in more experimental forms of theatre and dance-drama, as well as playwriting and choreographing together with young people.

One cool evening last spring, Claudia came to the group with an idea: let’s make a dance about children’s games. The dancers exchanged skeptical glances. After a bit of gentle convincing, Claudia coaxed us into experimenting and making up movements which recalled the games and tribulations of childhood – balancing on curbs, playing hopscotch and London Bridge, avoiding the cracks on sidewalks, pulling gum off the bottoms of our shoes. “Modern dance isn’t mime,” she would remind us, and we would revise our movements, so that they retained the shapes and forms of children’s movements, but not necessarily the specific actions.

Once a working vocabulary of movement had been invented, group members were paired off to combine the movements into phrases, paragraphs, choruses. From there, the composition of the whole piece settles around the constituent parts – the beginning, the
alternation of groups, transitions, times to dance in harmony, times to create organized chaos out of the space of the stage.

There is a lot of dance in Zambia, most of it from the traditions and villages of Zambia. This is something different entirely. Modern dance, which evolved from ballet, was started by Isadora Duncan in the 1920s in America. Since then, the movements and themes that
drive modern dance have expanded and spread throughout the world, giving birth to jazz and hip-hop in its wake.

The Gontroppos’ purpose is to share some of these dance ideas with the larger community here. In Mid-November, they will present several dance pieces, along with one-act comedies performed by Claudia and Lisa Santagate. Lisa is well known to Lusaka audiences as a singer and actor, having taken leading roles in major past productions such as Cabaret, Death and The Maiden, The Rocky Horror Picture Show and most recently, Jesus Christ Superstar. The one-act comedies Lisa and Claudia will be performing take a satirical look at the characters that linger on a beach promenade one sunny afternoon. All is not what it seems, as characters reveal their wishes, dreams and follies, at times strangely moving, at others simply hilarious.

Performances start at 7.30 pm sharp on 16th, 17th and 18th November at the Lusaka Playhouse. Tickets will be available from 1st November 2000 at Original Concepts in Manda Hill (next to Post.Net, opposite Phoenix Photgraphics – see October 2000 Lowdown for information!), the American International School or by phoning 252-699 or 761-695. From 10th November onwards, tickets will also be available at the Lusaka Playhouse Box Office from 5 pm until 7.30 pm.

By Tej Rae

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Recognition At Last For Art?

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

cover2000-11There are some countries, with their well-stocked art galleries and museums of various types, which literally seem awash with art. Zambia is not one of them. But by the same token, at least in Lusaka, hardly a week seems to pass without there being some sort of art exhibition. And Zambian works of arts can now be found in hotels, banks, government and other public buildings, and recently have been proudly displayed at an international conference hosted by Zambia.

This has prompted many to ask if art, for so long disregarded , is finally getting its due? Says a local art critic “Before independence and after independence art, together with music was regarded as a past time. Now the public has started, in a small way, to appreciate our local art.”

This new appreciation which translates into more buyers for art, has led to the creation of a fairly recent phenomenon in Zambia: the artist able to earn a living through art. Of course they are only a few and Zambia still has its fair share of artists struggling to make ends meet and those obliged to support themselves from a wide variety of other occupations.

In this light things look bleak for the artistic community but cast your mind back few decades when hardly anybody could live by the brush or chisel alone and you realise it is a positive change; albeit a very small one.

Flinto Chandia, a leading local sculptor, with numerous exhibitions under has belt and one of Zambia’s full time artists, believes there is a lot more Zambians could do to improve the lot of the artist. He says increased patronage by Zambians is essential in stimulating artistic efforts.

The current scenario is that the largest buyers of artists’ work are diplomats and expatriates. While pleased with the attentions of these buyers Chandia says the benefits the artists derive from these buyers could be enhanced by increased Zambian patronage.

And he says the issue of price does not come into it, as works of art range in prices. He says local works can be quite affordable but a lot of Zambians prefer to spend their money elsewhere. He recounts with pleasure how pleasantly surprised he was whilst participating in a major African art exhibition in London to observe that Nigerians in London would come and buy works by modern Nigerian artists. And indeed a recent study on African art noted that it is becoming fashionable and prestigious for Nigerians to display modern Nigerian art in their homes.

He says you can’t force Zambians to buy works of art, but you can encourage them. One way to do this he believes is by educating them on the country’s local art.

“There are more Zambians who have started coming to exhibitions and if many more come this can be a great help to arts in Zambia. There is money around locally and Zambians need to be educated concerning the value of their art,” says Chandia.

Many art lovers in the country believe this is a role well suited to a national art gallery. They argue that a national gallery would stimulate a greater interest in art and knowledge of this important area of creativity could be greatly enhanced primarily through a national gallery that displays the diversity of modern Zambian visual culture. As the country’s premier art institute it would not only showcase the best talent available in the country, but would also give a fair representation to all the modern and talented Zambian artists.

Unfortunately the idea of a national gallery doesn’t seem to be getting the attention it deserves. It is a much talked about idea, but nevertheless it remains an idea.

Gaudenzio Rossi, patron of the Visual Arts Council, a body set up to promote the arts, and major Zambian art collector, believes such a gallery is essential for the well-being of the arts. He says measures to give space to art in the country’s museums while welcome, are not adequate. He says it’s essential for Zambia to have a gallery dedicated purely to the arts that would show, in a profound way, the diversity of Zambian creativity in the mediums of paintings and sculpture.

“We’ve been talking forever about a national art gallery. All the paintings sitting in store rooms should have a home. And the government should help by buying paintings and displaying them” says Rossi.

“If we want to keep the history of Zambia alive, we need a gallery where the works of art can be displayed. Art is part of the history of Zambia and where else do you display your identify publicly if not in a public gallery?”

By Jifipa Ngalande

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Grand Opening of Twatasha Community School

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

cover2000-11I am very honoured to be present here for the opening of the Twatasha Community School. Acting Dutch Ambassador, Mrs. Lidi Remmelzwaal, opened her speech on Friday October 6, just before cutting the ribbon and unveiling the slate with the school’s logo upon it. The logo, designed and painted by students Rachel O’Donnell and Patricia Matzdorf, of the American International School, depicts an apple with the word ‘Twatasha,’ symbolising nourishment from the Tree of Knowledge. The ‘T’ in the word ‘Twatasha’ had been transformed to appear as a human image. The figure was intended to represent the students, the teachers, the parents and the community. The painting’s colours had been confined to those of the Zambian flag, representing the home country. Following the unveiling, Mrs. Remmelzwaal presented the school with a computer as a gift from the Dutch Embassy. The community, which is on the outskirts of Lusaka, was delighted to receive this contribution.

Mr Watze Elsinga, Managing Director of Enviro-Flor, and his wife, Angelique, began the project of building a school to provide the community with a quality and affordable educational facility. With the nearest schools 7 to 12 Kilometres away, only 44% of the community’s children attended school, and those who did had to walk long distances. This was the inspiration for the project. Many parents would not allow their children to walk the long distance to school until they reached a certain age. These children began school very late compared to the majority of the students who attended schools. Enviro-Flor decided to take charge of the situation, and not only to provide a school for the community, but also to make it a requirement that all of the children in the Enviro-Flor community attended school.

Now, under the leadership of Donald Mulubwa, Chairman of the Twatasha Community School project, funding from the Dutch Embassy and Enviro-Flor, and volunteers from within the community, this dream has become a reality. One aspect of the Twatasha Community School that will aid the students’ families is that Stanbic Bank is supplying a portion of the tuition fees. There is also a sister school to Twatasha, in the Netherlands and the American International School here in Lusaka, which will continue to donate supplies to the school.

The Ministry of Education has provided the newly appointed headmistress, Mrs. Mabel Kachidza who, with her 32 years experience in education, is a promising factor for the continued success of the school. The Ministry has also provided a teacher and a promise to supply more. Four hundred and sixty students from 3 to 12 years old are currently attending Twatasha Community School from the community. There will be a class for 3 and 4 year olds, one for 4 and 5 year olds, and then grades 1 and 2. The school curriculum will be in both English and Nyanja. A board will run the Twatasha Community School, and there will be a Parent Teacher Association to help keep the parents involved in their children’s education. Eventually, the goal is to replace the current board with parents and other members of the community.

Before the official opening of the school, Mrs. Remmelzwaal presented three of the community members who had been involved in a health-training programme with their certificates. These persons have been charged with routinely observing the children. Once a month, a private physician will visit the school and examine each child to maintain the health of every student. Bonnita is supplying buttermilk for the children in order to sustain their well being. The health of the students has been a very important issue in the school project. The classrooms are large and spacious, and will house at least forty students in each.

Many of the children who are older than 10 have never attended school. These children will join the First Grade class along with the smaller children who will just be starting school. When asked how this school will affect her in the future, 12 year old Niza answered, “The teachers seem to like teaching. I want to be a teacher.” Niza’s father is a worker at Enviro-Flor rose farm, where the school is located. She has a brother named Edward who will also be attending the school.

Up to this point this school has been a community project and must continue to be this if it is to succeed and progress further. As Mrs. Remmelzwaal stated, “The building is not yet a school, that will take time and energy…. the community at large, too has an important task ahead of them in making this happen.” Twatasha Community School will give the children in this community the opportunity to learn by supplying trained teachers, advanced facilities, and a community-wide learning experience that will prepare them for life.

by Nicole Gerber

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Plants to prettify Lusaka

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

cover2000-11Thousands of low-priced, healthy young plants in neat black plastics holders nestle in shady glades in the Lusaka City Council nursery, awaiting customers who seldom come because so few people know they are there.

The nursery hides modestly behind bougainvilleas on Mwatusanga Road, off Independence Avenue just before Woodlands roundabout. (To make it more difficult, the road sign has joined dozens of others in town by falling down and not being replaced by L.C.C)

At the nursery, trained horticulturalist Gift Marufu will guide you round the various sections – shrubs, hedges, trees, pot plants, fruit trees and flowering plants. Perennial and annual flowers can be bought by the clump from beds, while cut flowers are also available.

If you haven’t a clue about plants but know what you need – a plant that likes shade or full sun; something evergreen and fast growing; a creeper to cover a wall – Gift Marufu will advise you. Ask for him personally, as the garden labourers are not so well informed.

Personally I go for the big bougainvillea in every colour, that they will get out of big tubs for you. Take a big basin to take such a plant home, because it comes with a big chunk of good soil, and have a hole ready for it at home for immediate planting.

The nursery is open weekdays only from 8 am to 4.30 pm, including lunch hour. It also provides tree cutting services at a reasonable fee, so if you have a dead or dying big tree looming over your premises, call on them.

More and more ugly walls are disfiguring our suburbs, but they can be improved by whitewashing or painting and planting shrubs and lawn in front of them. On the inside, you can grow creepers and climbers, which eventually grow up and spill over the wall to the road side.

White walls and blazing bougainvillea could help give our suburbs a Mediterranean air – we have the weather for it, so let’s tackle these grim fortifications with the help of the L.C.C nurseries.

By Toni Tilley

 

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Readers Have Their Say

Written By: The Lowdown - Nov• 30•00

cover2000-11SANGOMAS, FOOTBALL AND RESPECT

I’m writing in reference to the malodorous saga involving Andrew Tembo, Mwape Miti and the Danish football club OB Odious (sorry, OB Odense, may they be relegated for ever and ever) and the general passivity of our local media in responding to the whole story.

Here we have two young bright hopes turning their backs on their duty and their nation, and all we get are a few mumbles and lines about “duty” and “commitment” and the issue dies down. At the end of the day, how difficult is it for our local newspapers to conduct interviews (by phone, fax, email, carrier pigeons, whatever) with the two players and the Club officials. We need to find out what’s going on because this issue stinks.

We all know the facts. Jan Brouwer sees the boys in Denmark and there’s no problem. A week later a fax comes in saying they’ve resigned from the National Team (as if it’s a 9 – 5 job! Playing for your country is the greatest honour in football dammit!). It sounds as if the club is trying to be clever and is putting undue pressure on the boys (they’ll see). Not to excuse the players, but they could be ignorant of their FIFA guaranteed rights as international players and are easily being manipulated by the Odious officials. Afterall, these boys have gone from ultra low Kwacha based salaries, playing on surfaces where green grass is an endangered species, to thousands of hard currency greenbacks a week. Their heads are probably spinning so much they generate electricity (a possible solution for ZESCO maybe?). Add to this mix cunning club officials adding their own spin and what do you get? Here’s a possible scenario:

(Scene: Odense official in club boardroom with Tembo and Miti. Through the boardroom window snow is seen falling from a brooding black sky with occassional flashes of lightning) Club Ofiicial – “Jeez. This greenhouse effect is playing havoc with the weather. How the hell can it be snowing in June? Anyway, you Zambian players, this is the situation (sardonic smile). We spent a lot of bucks getting you here. You owe us big. If you play for Z, you lose all your bucks. Think of all your bululus back home waiting for their handouts, do you want to jeopardise your job? It’s better if you resign from the national team.” ½ second pause

Tembo and Miti – “Okay Bwana”.

Someone needs to explain the facts of life to the players: It’s through playing for their country that they got exposure in the first place. Do they want to play for a two-bit club forever? After all, their colleagues are beginning to break into proper leagues, where the football is bigtime (and so are the bucks). Only the national team can give them that exposure.

If OB Odious have been playing dirty tricks, they should be reported to FIFA and heavily punished. Perhaps the Danish embassy can help. Or is it Danish policy to steal the few talented individuals that impoverished countries like Zambia produce. What next, Amon Simutowe to be offered free lessons in the Danish language? Anyway, while FAZ and Danish football politicians argue it out ever so politely, me, I’ll just follow Edem Djokotoes advice. See, I figure the problem is lack of respect. So to teach them a lesson I’ve located a hard core sangoma and handed over the necessaries (chicken, goat and chibuku). Pretty soon a plague of boils will break out on the entire OB Odious (sorry, Odense) club, it will flash lightning everyday at noon, snow will fall permanently on their pitch and they’ll be relegated forever and ever. Then we’ll see how quickly the club will encourage Andrew and Mwape to come home. It’s all about respect I tell you, respect!

Tum Kazunga, Lusaka

 

 

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Northern News

Written By: The Lowdown - Oct• 31•00

Sunset over the Lake at Mpulungu

Beautiful Lake Tanganyika at the very northern tip of Zambia and about 2½ hours drive from Kasama, on a decent road, gives Zambians access to its beauty and resources. But before seeking surf and sun its worth stopping in Mbala (turn right at the main T-junction for Mbala and left for Mpulungu) to see Moto Moto Museum, an impressive collection of African artifacts and history built by a man named Father Corbe and funded by NORAD. The Museum was named after the first Bishop of Northern Rhodesia, Bishop Dupont who smoked a pipe and would often shout “fire, fire” or “moto, moto”, in Swahili. The Museum features an African hut built indoors with explanations and illustrations of various traditions surrounding the design, paintings and family life that take place within, stone age tools and artifacts, various wildlife displays including an impressive snake collection (not living!), and many other historical and cultural features. There is also a small craft shop with post cards, locally made clay pots, baskets, carvings and batiks. Moto Moto Museum has a few books available including one on rock paintings and one on the Museum itself. It is well worth a visit. Drive through Mbala and turn left at the prison.

Kalambo Falls cannot be missed either. The turn-off is 4½ km from the Police Station, turn left and drive about 33 km. This road, unfortunately is very rocky so 4 x 4 vehicles only, but the other way to see the Falls is by hiking via some of the lodges. Regardless of how you get there you‘ll not want to miss the second highest waterfall in Africa, an impressive 221 metre drop, more than twice that of Victoria Falls. Its width is 2 metres in the dry season and 15 metres in the rains. There are some paths around the top of the Falls, a wonderful spot for a picnic. A knowledgeable guide may be able to lead you to the resting place of the Marabou storks not far from the Falls, as well.

Next stop, Mpulungu, the main fishing port and centre of tourist and fishing activity. Not a beautiful town, but bear with it as it will lead to better things.

Just past the fish barriers is Lake Tanganyika Lodge.  Turn left down a rocky but fairly short road to reach this small, reasonably-priced Flintstone-style establishment built of rounded lake stones (the bath tubs are particularly Freddy Flintstone-style!). Tanganyika Lodge lunches are particularly famous – fresh fish, coleslaw and roast potatoes…. simple but hearty and nicely done. The lodge is generally self-catering but our meal was done on request. A variety of fresh fish is usually available to buy and cook yourself as well. The Lodge is a popular place to for scuba diving and a boat can be hired too. Bookings are not always necessary, most people arrive and chance a Flintstone chalet. Tents are also available for hire.

Niamkolo

For those interested in a little local history, there is the remains of Niamkolo Church located 2 km east of Mpulungu. It is the oldest stone church in Zambia built between 1893 – 96 by the London Missionary Society. It suffered a fire and therefore the roof is no longer intact but some renovations were made to the walls of this national monument in 1962. More details of its history can be found in National Monuments of Zambia by D.W. Phillipson.

From Mpulungu you can reach Isanga Bay Lodge which will be open by Christmas this year. It was owned and lovingly built by Hugh Smith who sadly died a few years ago, losing his life to cancer. His family, determined to carry on Hugh’s dream hired Clive and Linda Gloss to continue the building of the three beautiful and impeccably-built chalets on stilts, with tongue and groove wood panelling, heavy thatch and en-suite shower and toilets. These luxury chalets are set on the main beach facing the most spectacular sunset in town, by night,  and sand and shady nsakas, by day. The Gloss’s  are in the final stages of building the central dining room/bar/office block as well as three self-catering chalets (one family chalet) on the rock pier. Also planned is a camping area with a separate beach, a main nsaka with braais and running water. Isanga Bay Lodge is without doubt a special experience with something for everyone – full board or self-catering, luxury or budget accommodation, excursions to Kalambo Falls, fishing trips, snorkling to watch the tropical fish or scuba diving (with own equipment) and birding walks. Lodge prices were not available at time of writing, butwith a booking you will be collected from Mpulungu Harbour at Samaki Fisheries and be sipping a ‘cool one’ on the beach in less than an hour.

Just a few bays down from Isanga Bay is Mishembe Bay or as it’s often referred to, Luke’s Beach, owned by Luke Powell. Luke is also in the process of building and will open sometime in 2001. This establishment will be a self-catering operation offering reasonable rates. There will be a main building for the dining area and bar.  Tents are available for hire and a feature of note is the ‘loo with a view’ on the side of the mountain… open concept you could say! Hikes to Kalambo Falls and other excursions can also be organised at Mishembe Bay.

For bookings and information on Lodges in Mpulungu, contact Hazel Powell at Thorn Tree Guest House in Kasama at 04 221-615 or Anthony or Belinda at Samaki Fisheries in Mpulungu on 04 455-103.

Next month’s Northern News will feature Mutinondo Wilderness, a tourist enterprise and community project owned and run by Lari Bosman and Mike Merritt. …. so stay tuned to the North!

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Monze Gears Up For Uhuru Rally

Written By: The Lowdown - Oct• 31•00

As Zambia celebrates its 36th Independence anniversary, the farming town of Monze will host the 2000 Zambia Motor Sports Association (ZMSA) BP Challenge Monze Independence Rally.  The rally, which attracts entries from the big boys, will run from 21st to 22nd October.

The BP Challenge comes after the Castle Rally won by Muna Singh of Lusaka and will also attract large crowds.  A visitor to Monze would be forgiven for thinking that a king was being enthroned when seeing the many spectators who jostle for a better view, in order to catch a glimpse of the top drivers.  The whole town literally comes to a standstill during the annual championship as the cars shoot past their homes.  For the residents of this small town, south of Mazabuka, the BP Challenge is their biggest sporting event.

Organised by the ZMSA in conjunction with the Monze Gold Club, it is sponsored by Lonrho Motors Zambia Ltd.  Guru Singh is the Clerk of the Course and the Tonga Bull, Praful Desai is the Chairman of the rally.  Praful navigated for Ken Mukosa. The young driver, who charmed spectators with his locally assembled Landrover in the 2000 Castrol Spectra Rally.  Local journalists covering the rally named Mukosa’s Landrover From The Archives.  Guru Singh has been involved in rallying since 1969 when Mike Bond and Tim Madrell won the first-ever championship.

For the people of Monze, the BP Challenge will be a sports extravaganza not to be missed.  It will be an opportunity for them to see some of the giants and upcoming drivers in rallying.

by Moses WalubitaMonze_Rally (2)

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Major Cultural Event Hits Southern Africa

Written By: The Lowdown - Oct• 31•00

Preparations are well underway in countries throughout Southern African for one of the major environmental and cultural events of this millennium year – ‘A Light in the Night of President Khaya Afrikha’. ‘Khaya Afrikha’ is set to hit the regional cultural and political stage in an explosion of song, dance and traditional story telling. It’s different and it aims to make a difference! A difference that will be seen, heard and felt in the seven southern African countries that this production will be touring from October to December 2000.

”Khaya Afrikha’ is performed by one of the most powerful companies of African actors ever assembled in the Southern African region, Report Back Africa, appearing under the patronage of Ms Graca Machel. The company consists of 17 award-winning actors from seven countries and is directed by internationally acclaimed South African playwright, Nicholas Ellenbogen, of Theatre for Africa.

Report Back Africa is the result of a unique joint initiative – the Community Outreach Programme – of regional development NGO Africa Resources Trust, Cape Town based theatrical company Theatre for Africa, and some 20 other internationally recognised NGOs. It is the culmination of two years of painstaking research and consultations by this dynamic group of young actors with thousands of rural villagers throughout the most remote areas of the sub-continent.

‘Khaya Afrikha’ is research results you won’t forget in a hurry. It is sure to make you laugh and cry, celebrate our African heritage and look forward to the future. It is a voice for those who usually do not get heard. A voice that is amplified in each country with the support of national celebrities, such as musician Oliver Mtukudzi in Zimbabwe, and other political and entertainment personalities.

The play examines the harsh choices facing African leadership in the year 2000. Set during a Renaissance Ball and a meeting to plead for debt relief, we follow the ups and downs of President Khaya Afrikha as he tries to find a balance between the wisdom and traditions of the past and the demands and pace of the future. It is a light-hearted and entertaining exploration of the serious issues of resource use and conservation facing the African people today.

Performances in Zambia will be held on 25th October in Mfuwe and on 27th and 28th October in Lusaka (See ‘Wots Happening‘).

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Mazabuka

Written By: The Lowdown - Oct• 31•00

Cane Cutter’s Day At Zambia Sugar

Probably one of the most physically exacting jobs going in this part of the world is cutting cane. The cane is burnt the night before and early the next morning; cutters get into the fields and set about harvesting it with their “knives”.  Several tonnes (each) later and covered in smut and soot they set off back to their temporary homes for much needed refreshment…and a rest. Now there’s more to their lives than simply cutting cane.

Over the past three months, Cane Cutters at Zambia Sugar, most of who hail from Western Province, have, in their spare time, been earnestly honing their skills at soccer and polishing their performance at Traditional Dancing. The reason for this? The First Annual Soccer and Tribal Dancing Championships, sponsored by one of Zambia Sugar’s main agricultural equipment suppliers, Barlow’s Equipment.

On Sunday, August 27, Cane Cutters from the entire Estate gave themselves and their cane knives a rest and descended on Nakambala Estates Community Centre soccer field to either watch or participate in the two events. The local community also came out in full force to witness the teams (four soccer and four dancing) vie for the much sought after Barlow’s Soccer and Tribal Dancing floating trophies. Proudly sporting Barlow’s T shirts, the Cutters gave an excellent, closely matched, performance on the soccer field, and danced their hearts out, much to the enjoyment of the spectators, many of whom had not witnessed traditional Lozi dancing before.

In presenting trophies to the winning teams – Nakambala section for the soccer (won by a penalty shoot-out) and Kaleya for the dancing, – Barlow’s Sales Manager for the southern region, Gary Norton said that Barlow’s were very pleased to be associated with the sponsorship of sport and cultural activities for the cutter’s at Nakambala and looked forward to future events.

Exciting Finish To Polocrosse .

The Polocrosse National Championships that took place at Lubombo in early September went very well – particularly for local teams. Last year’s Champions in the A division, Leopard’s Hill, didn’t make it to the finals this year, and instead, it was a hard fought match between Lusaka side, Trotover, and the hosts, Lubombo. Lubombo took the trophy in both the A and B divisions. The C division was won by a new team fielded entirely by the Zambian Police. Good to see them play, and we hope they’ll keep it up and be back again next year.

Coming Up!

It’s fairly quiet and peaceful in Mazabuka at this time of year, and you can almost hear the mango’s grow! However there are a few happenings left in the year. At Mazabuka club, there’s “the Brain’s of Mazabuka” on October 28th and the Memorial Rally in November (no fixed date yet). There is also GOLF! President of the Golf Club, Doug Cantlay and his team of helpers, need to be given a medal for bringing the course “up to scratch”… The fairways are so green that goats have mistaken them for a lush grazing ground. So, if you can’t get your hole in one – you’ll most probably be able to’ “get your goat!”

The Sun – Public Enemy Number One!

On a recent visit to Durban, I sat with a friend who is a cancer victim, in a very comfortable sitting room, surrounded by other cancer sufferers – all with Chemo drips attached to their arms. They chatted to me about the types of cancer they had and when they hoped to be “off” treatment. It was a sobering experience. The youngest person there was Gerry, aged 24. He had Melanoma cancer. He told me that he had spent his teenage years on the beach, and had never bothered with any form of “skin protection”. No sunscreen and no protective clothing.

Malignant melanoma is the most deadly form of skin cancer to affect light skinned people in this part of the world. According to specialists, once it gets into the lymph system there is little chance of the patient recovering. Gerry’s Melanoma spot had appeared on his leg. He’d had the spot removed and diagnosed as being malignant. Six months later he developed a swollen gland in his groin. Two years later he is still on treatment but the cancer is in his lymph system and it’s rife.
Southern Hemisphere countries have the highest skin cancer rates in the world, obviously because of the amount of sun we’re exposed to on a daily basis, but this is exacerbated by the hole in the ozone layer that lies over southernmost countries, inadequately shielding us from ultraviolet rays.

People with dark skin are not immune, as pigmentation doesn’t offer complete protection against the UVA light that seems to be the principal cause of skin cancer. The risks for dark skinned people are lower, but they’re still there and can’t be ignored. However, among white people worldwide, the incidence of melanoma is rising at a rate that outstrips all other cancers.

In Australia there’s a massive, ongoing campaign to try and make people aware of the dangers of the sun. There’s the “Slip, Slop, Slap” campaign – slip on a shirt, slop on some sunscreen and slap on a hat. The best protection? To simply stay OUT of the sun, particularly in the middle of the day. “Between 11 and 3 step under a tree” is how one Aussie television commercial puts it.   The best sunscreen is absolutely FREE! It’s shade.

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From the Editor

Written By: The Lowdown - Oct• 30•00

As this edition of the Lowdown comes off the printing press, Lusaka residents will be bracing themselves for a very busy and, no doubt, hot October – Zambia’s 36th Independence celebrations, the launching of the COMESA Free Trade Area and all the exhibitions and seminars that go with it, as well as the SADC Mines 2000 Forum.  On the entertainment front, one only has to look at the Wot’s Happening section to see that whilst Lusaka’s residents  may be dying from the heat, they’re not dying of boredom.

We welcome to Lusaka all the visitors who will be attending the myriad of forums going on and hope that you will be able to take some time off from your work to sample what Lusaka, its surrounds and Zambia has to offer.  In this edition are details of places to go and sites to see, which we hope you will find useful.  For regular readers, we have omitted the Directory this month because of space constraints, but will be back in an improved format next month.

In the August issue, we published an article on Tooter’s Restaurant in Monze.  In response to this, we received a number of telephone calls from their patrons saying that they did not agree with us, so we called on them again, and are pleased to be able to report that the previous complaint no longer existed and the food was delicious.  When doing reviews of restaurants and hotels, we always arrive unannounced, pay for the meal in full, and only sometimes make our presence known to the management, after we have completed the meal.

I also owe an apology to Jaylin Restaurant.  In the September issue, I said that we had selected sweet and sour pork from the menu.  This should have been sweet and sour prawns.

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and we are indeed flattered by Lusaka’s newest publication, Messenger.  They have copied the content of our Restaurant page, content, complete with errors, and format or rather the format more or less as it was before we changed it in the July issue.  Messenger is a monthly publication and they say ‘This first edition is free of charge’.  No indication is given whether subsequent publications will be charged for.

The publishing industry in Zambia is undergoing a difficult time.  Profit Magazine and The Farmer have both been off the streets for some time.  Communications and Transport, produced by the Chartered Institute of Transport, is a quarterly publication which has managed to keep going.  But all of these were, or are, printed outside of Zambia. This is due, mainly, to the high cost of printing in Zambia, especially for full colour printing.

The question of whether to have the Lowdown printed outside of Zambia is something that we have considered on a number of occasions, but each time, we stay right where we are. Logistically, it makes sense – if there is a problem, we are right on the spot to solve it; the lead time is much less meaning that deadlines can be set closer to the publication date; we don’t have to bite our nails every month wondering whether there is going to be a delay in its arrival in Lusaka; we don’t have to worry about clearance formalities and we are able to build up a good rapport with our printers. When a cost/benefit analysis is done, there are more benefits to printing locally.  There is another reason – we are a Zambian publication and since Zambian industry supports us, so we too must support Zambian industry.

Competition in business is healthy, especially for the consumer, and in this case, for you, the readers.  For this reason, we welcome Messenger to a growing family of publishers.

For those readers outside of Lusaka, we have been working hard this month to try to sort out our distribution in the major centres.  The Southern Province has been taken care of, and the Lowdown will now also be available from the FedEx offices in Mazabuka, Monze, Choma and Livingstone, as well as the other outlets where it was previously available.  Although not yet finalised, discussions are going on to ensure that the Lowdown gets to the all Copperbelt towns, Kasama, Mpika and Mongu within the first few days of the month.  After that, we will tackle Chipata and Siavonga.  The Lowdown will still be available from Shoprite if you are lucky enough to live in a town where they have a branch.

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The Gorges below the Victoria Falls

Written By: The Lowdown - Sep• 30•00

The gorges below the Victoria Falls provide some stunning views and magnificent picnic spots. But often, it seems to me, it is only the rafters and abseilers who get to enjoy them. The road which takes you for a tour around them is always quiet – few people seem to bother to visit them. The best way to enjoy nature’s architecture of the gorges, however, is to stay at one of the lodges which are perched on the edge of one of them. I can sit and just look at the view for hours. There are two lodges along the gorges – Songwe Village and Taita Falcon Lodge. Both offer a totally different lodge experience but both have a similar view.

 

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Songwe Village

Songwe Village is a special lodge because it specialises in giving the visitor a taste of life in a Zambian village, with the necessary mod-cons to offer those essential comforts. As you drive up to Songwe, the lodge looks just like a local village. It is fenced in grass and the chalets look just like the local huts (but not deteriorated as many of our village huts are these days). Inside the compound there are chickens and goats running around. Sounds awful, doesn’t it. But it’s not. Our hosts took us on a tour around the ‘village’, first to see you huts and then to see the bathrooms. The huts are named after previous chiefs of Mukuni village; ours was called Sichechele, a chief who had been buried alive. Apparently he had got too old to be a good chief so the people decided to bury him anyway because they wanted a younger chief.

The bathrooms are one of Songwe’s claims to fame – they must have the best views in Zambia. The chalets do not have showers or baths – only a (flush) toilet. To have a shower visitors wrap themselves in a Songwe bathrobe and wander off to the very edge of the gorge to one of the bathrooms – there are four, all with different styles. The bathrooms are walled in except for a huge open ‘window’ onto the gorge.

That afternoon we were taken on an ox-cart ride to Songwe’s museum. The ox-cart was much more comfortable than we expected – looked like some Land Rover springs between us and the wheels. While constructing the lodge many stone-age and iron-age sites were found and the stone tools were carefully collected for display. The museum tells the story of how the gorges were formed over millions of years and how primitive man lived then. It is very thought-provoking and I could imagine the ghosts of our ancestors watching us in that stark landscape.

The evening meal is traditional and eaten in a traditional way. Men sit on stools together; ladies sit on mats on the floor. The Zambian stews and nshima are served in enamel bowls and we all used our hands to eat. It was a lot of fun. The evenings at Songwe are spent listening to stories and often the staff entertain visitors with drumming and dance. Songwe Village has a special rate for Zambian residents at US$60 per person. This includes all meals, drinks and local tours. Contact them on 03- 323-659.

 

Taita Falcon Lodge

A little bit further along the gorges you can find Taita Falcon Lodge. This is a ‘normal’ lodge with en-suite chalets, bar, restaurant and swimming pool. The owners, Faan, Annamarie and Andre, are excellent hosts full of stories and local gossip.

Again the lodge has spectacular views from the deck by the bar. There are always binoculars at hand to watch the bird life, or in the morning to watch the rafters as they tumble past in the rapids below – the rafts often upside down.

The food is cooked by Oscar, the chef. He makes the most delicious brown bread and other delights. The evening meal is served on the deck as you listen to the water rushing through the gorges below. On a moonlit night the gorges can be clearly seen in the eerie light. The breakfast is most welcome after a night with Faan and a whisky bottle.

The water for the lodge is pumped 200 metres up the side of the gorge but this has not stopped Andre from producing lush gardens throughout the lodge. Taita is like an oasis after the drive through the stunted trees and yellow grass of the scenery along the road. I could only marvel at the courage of Andre to consider planting the gardens on those rocks – but he has done it. Tel/Fax Livingstone 321850.

Both lodges are only a short drive from Livingstone on a dirt road. The road is OK for most of the year but if you don’t want to risk driving your vehicle, it can be parked safely in Livingstone and both lodges will transport you out.

 

by Gill Staden

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